Jon8 Comments

Uh-oh, I pulled too hard!

Jon8 Comments

In this season of hard training and pushing your limits, stomach I figured I would post up a reminder that you need to listen to your body. Very carefully. I'll relate the whole story so as not to drop any details.

I've been training to send my project bouldering problem in Bishop, human enhancement a burly v7/8 (called Pow Pow) which would be the first at the grade for me. I've been working it on occasion for years; it requires uber-body tension and cranking campus-like moves off of shitty open-handed crimps. I've gotten the whole thing in two sections, this so I was planning to send it this spring break (~1.5 months from now). All I really need to send is a good season of focused training.

So my training and ability level has been steadily improving this winter; a couple weeks ago, I began doing open-handed (3-finger) campus board training. I alternate doing static 3-finger hangs from the 3/4 inch rungs, then doing long moves on the 1" rungs (complex training).  I've done this twice over the past 2 weeks--so I definitely have allowed time to rest. Yesterday, after two days of recovery, I decided the 3/4" rungs were too easy (was hanging ~10 seconds) so I decided to try the newly installed (courtesy of Strong Dan) 1/2" rungs. After 2 sets, in which I was *almost* able to stick a fully weighted hang (3 fingers, open handed) I decided to give it a more focused attempt. My ring finger on my right hand gave out with a strange sound and sensation, something new to me. It didn't hurt, so I figured it wasn't serious. So I decided to try a set on the 3/4" rungs instead. what an the left ring finger did the exact same thing. This really freaked me out. I was about to leave, but thought to do some easy traversing to wrap up the evening (still not taking in the reality of what I'd done to myself). Traversing wasn't too bad, and my fingers didn't hurt that much.

Now it is Sunday. Tying my shoes is a little difficult; there is absolutely no way I can climb if I use my ring fingers at all. Even a minor attempt to generate force in an open-handed position causes terrible pain, although I can still type without a problem right now. So I'm taking at least a couple weeks off from any grip-related activities that are avoidable.

On that note, anyone up for some running? ;)

Pull Hard (but not too hard...)